Brixton Village is a remarkable place, even if there are compromises

06.07.11 - duralit toaster

London’s ability to stop even the most jaded inhabitant in their tracks is one of its most alluring qualities. It’s been a while since I’ve visited what used to be called the Granville Arcade, now renamed Brixton Village , part of the sprawling, raucous and vividly fragranced – especially on a sweltering day – Brixton Market. The thirties building had been left to moulder unloved for years, only a bunch of die-hard, mostly Afro-Caribbean businesses saving it from total decrepitude. But an influx of newcomers, attracted by a initiative spearheaded by urban visionaries, Space Makers Agency, has transformed the market’s fortunes. Compared with what it looked like until fairly recently, all I can say is: wow.

Each of its lofty alleyways now offers treasures. Since I discovered Elephant I keep coming back to try more and more of the tiny businesses sprouting up on what seems like a daily basis. There’s everything here, from thick, luscious handmade gelati from Lab G – 'Laboratorio Artigianale del Buon Gelato' with their pistachio or hazelnut or pannacotta flavours, or wonderful, buttery caramel spiked with Maldon salt (nfolabg@gmail.com) to griddled South American steaks from grizzled old timers.

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